Tomatillos and salsa heaven

It's been a slow year in my garden; I still have green figs on the tree, so I'm hoping for more sun over the next week or so. Not that it's looking too promising, autumn is really breathing down our necks at the moment but it is still quite mild.
In any case, the persimmons and tamarillos are colouring up and the tomatillos have been ripening over the last two or three weeks, thank goodness. They still aren't well known in New Zealand, which surprises me as they are so worthwhile to grow, providing the base for my favourite salsa and they also make delicious chutney in their own right. And they can be substituted for green tomatoes in green tomato chutney. I have tried them sliced, egg and breadcrumbed and shallow fried, but wasn't overly impressed.

They're related to the Cape gooseberry, as you can see. (I love to have these in the garden, too; the bright orange marble-sized fruit make such a treat-in-a-parcel for little kids). Tomatillos are much bigger than Cape gooseberries, about the size of an egg.
Once you've grown them they just self seed then next year, and you can cull as you want.
They're quite pretty, too, kind of like paper chinese lanterns in the garden.
As I was washing the sticky coating off the other day, I realised they must be quite top heavy, as they float top down - but that was just an inconsequential thought with no significance whatsoever.

Much more important is kicking back with a bowl of the salsa. . .not forgetting that it's also really good in wraps, and absolutely delicious on top of chunks/large diced barbecued fish fillets - cook on the hot plate and top with some tomatillo salsa just before you serve.

TOMATILLO SALSA/DIP

Combined with chilli, fresh coriander, cumin, garlic and lime or lemon, tomatillos make a Mexican salsa so good it could be addictive. Serve with corn chips as a dip, or as a sauce to include in wraps or to serve with almost anything from tacos to frittatas.

Freeze or bottle the base salsa as detailed below.
Tomatillos are easy to grow, and self-seeding.
Unhusked tomatillos can be stored in a paper bag in a refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

 1 kg tomatillos

2 onions, peeled and chopped
water if poaching
1 tsp ground cumin
4-5 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 ½ tsp salt
3/4 tsp sugar
2-3 red chillies, seeded and finely chopped
1 ½ - 2 Tbsp lime juice or equivalent lemon juice for each cup of base mixture
¼ cup finely chopped coriander for each cup of base mixture

 Remove the husks from the tomatillos and wash in warm water to remove the sticky coating.

Prepare the onion and stir into the tomatillos in a microwave -safe bowl. Cover and microwave on high for 5-6 minutes with no added water. Gently stir in the cumin, then microwave again for another 5 minutes. Drain off at least half a cup of liquid at this point and discard. 
OR place in a large shallow frypan with 1 cup water and the cumin and simmer, turning constantly over a low heat until the tomatillos turn ochre in colour and are soft to the touch without actually splitting. Drain most of the water off.
Stir the prepared garlic, salt and sugar into the cooked tomatillos.
Place the microwaved or  poached and drained tomatillo mixture in a processor and pulse to roughly chop. 
Stir in the seeded and finely chopped red chillies. At this point the base mixture can either be frozen as is, or transferred to a pot and brought to simmer point before being bottled in the normal way.
When required, ensure the base mixture is at room temperature. Stir in the lime juice (or lemon) along with the finely chopped coriander, taste, then adjust the seasonings to taste  - salt, sugar, chilli, lime/lemon juice.

Red capsicum & lime marmalata, and grilled ricotta.

Even though the price of red capsicums hasn't gone dow to their usual late summer levels this year, there's one preserve I have to make - roasted red capsium and lime marmalata (marmellata).  Only trouble is that it's also a favourite of husband Russ, so before I knew it he'd consumed (almost single handedly) a whole jar over two days; marmelata on bacon, with cheese on biscuits, with creme fraiche and hot smoked salmon and..and. It is delicious, though I'm going to have to get smarter, obviously, and secrete some away.

The recipe is in my 'Vegetarian Kitchen' anyway, but here it is below as well.

 RED CAPSICUM & LIME MARMALATA

This ‘marmalade’ is such a gorgeous, eye - catching red that it’s almost a surprise to find it tastes as good as it looks. It’s a hit as a topping for crackers spread with cream cheese, but use it as you please – there won’t be a shortage of ideas once it’s tasted.
*If kaffir lime leaves are not available, use young lime leaves or the pared and finely julienned zest from an extra lime or lemon. 

8 large red capsicums

1 cup orange juice, no preservatives or added sugar
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp peeled and minced ginger (prepared)
3 cups sugar
1 tsp salt
½ - ¾ tsp chilli powder
5 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 branch tip of kaffir lime leaves, 12-14 whole leaves*
Thinly pared rind of 2 lemons, finely julienned or use a zester
Juice of two lemons

Preheat oven to 225 C.
Place the capsicums on a baking tray and roast for about 25 minutes or until the skins are blistered and blackening. Remove from the oven and cool until they can be handled (place in plastic bag if you wish, but this is not necessary). Peel, and discard the core and seeds. Chop finely.
Place all the ingredients into a heavy based saucepan, bring to simmer point and cook for 30-40 minutes or until the mixture has thickened and is the consistency of jam.
Discard the kaffir lime and bay leaves using tongs.
Spoon into hot, sterilized jars and screw on hot sterilized metal screw- on lids.

The marmalata is also great with home-made ricotta on rye, which reminds me that I stumbled upon a really easy nibble this week. I'd made some ricotta and have had so many guests and visitors lately that I haven't had a lot of time to cook anything other than main meals - but I just mixed some ricotta with crushed garlic, fresh pizza thyme leaves, sea salt and coarsely ground pepper, transferred it to a ramekin, drizzled virgin olive oil over the top and grilled it so it was soft and squishy and spread deliciously  - soooo good. Then I trialled it again, but this time lightly sauteed finely chopped garlic in the virgin oil before mixing it in the ricotta with the thyme, (oregano is nice too) salt and pepper before grilling. Really don't know which I prefer, so hopefully someone out there will try and let me know what they think!

I've been trialling for a mid-winter Xmas shoot next Monday, too - a full menu, so time is a little pressured. Today, however, I am definitely setting aside for making my Life's Too Short Marmalade - just because I can't live without it, that's all there is to be said, really. Just email me if you want the recipe. . .

Rhubarb champagne and chocolate beetroot cake mmmmm

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Wanaka is gorgeous, of course; but Hawea is only 10 minutes away and its charms have grown on me, especially as it's quiter and with such stunning weather late March and April. . .

Leaves are just turning, there's not a breath of wind, only day after day of sun and clear skies.
It wasn't just a holiday, I gave a talk to about 100 Probus members in Wanaka while I was there; you'd think it would be easy to talk about yourself and what you do but it never is, it's nerve wracking and sleep depriving. I ran out of time so never got to the anecdotes  of life in France and Tuscany and culinary adventures there, which was a shame, but I did refer anyone interested to the blog.

In addition, I'm now on a first-name basis with the 'girls', my son and his partner's four chooks. They're happy free rangers, produce four delicious eggs per day and seem to enjoy a bit of cluck cluck conversation and attention down the back of the garden. The garden, incidentally, is endowed with beautiful, mature fruit trees  - apples, an apricot, a nashi pear, a quince tree so laden the branches have to be propped up so they don't break off;

Large golden quinces

a loquat, crab apples and two!! very large almond trees.

Not the clearest photo, but here the two halves of the shell are opening to reveal the nut inside

So, we made quince paste for Hannah to take to family over Easter, and I raided the garden to make rhubarb champagne for when they get back. I made sure I snuck a few quinces into my luggage, too, because I love their perfume in the house - I have enough of the paste to last for a while.
Rhubarb champagne has been a great success here over Easter,  everyone loves it - someone even called it 'summer in a glass' which is a good description.
Here's my recipe. . . how easy is this?

                  RHUBARB ‘CHAMPAGNE’

 A vigorous clump or two of rhubarb is always an asset in a garden, and not least of all for making this delicious pink ‘champagne’. Refreshing but not sweet, it has such a lovely colour that it seems to epitomize fun, fizz and summer.

Makes four 1.25 litre bottles.

1 kg red rhubarb stalks

3 lemons, rind and juice
700g sugar
4 litres water

Wash the rhubarb, slice into 2cm lengths, and if the lemons are thick skinned, you may need to peel them with a floating blade peeler. Slice off the white pith and discard, then chop the lemon flesh roughly. If the lemons are thin skinned, this step is not necessary – just chop the whole lemons roughly.

Dissolve the sugar in hot tap water.
Place the prepared rhubarb and the lemon rind and flesh in a non-metallic bowl or bucket, pour the dissolved sugar mixture over, cover with a clean cloth and set aside for two – three days, depending on how warm the temperature is. The mixture should have a light fizz when ready to bottle.
Strain very thoroughly through muslin and transfer to extra clean plastic 1.25 litre bottles with screw on tops. Fizzy drink bottles are ideal. Don’t fill right to the top, leave a gap of five – eight centimeters, to allow the natural gases to rise.
Keep the bottles in a cool, dark place if possible for three days or until the neck of the bottle swells and becomes quite hard, indicating the bottles should then be refrigerated. This could take up to two or even three weeks, depending on the weather.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 three
Serve chilled. 

The other Easter success has been a chocolate beetroot cake with a chocolate glaze - moist, light and delicious (actually, it's more accurately a chocolate mocha & beetroot cake).  Well, it wasn't a total success story because I made two quite different versions and only one cut the mustard, the other will be for family only consumption - but the successful one was something of a triumph. Also, in the frig was the prefect accompaniment - my passionfruit curd. This partnership worked brilliantly, and was also great on hot cross buns instead of butter and marmalade.

Just email me if you want the recipe. . .

I'm off to make tomatillo salsa base and check the figs (I know, I must make and photograph the mole!).

France bound - why not come with me?!

It's shaping up to be quite a busy year for me; I've been commissioned to write two more cookbooks, and a trip to France is planned for this September accompanying a tour arranged by VIP Travel, Dunedin. I say 'accompany' because there will be bi-lingual French hosts on the tour. How lucky is that? The itinerary shadows places I know and love, and includes new ones as well. We start in Paris and end up in Provence three weeks later.

It's not all about food (and wine), though of course that is a focus; there will be visits to a truffle farm, a Ferme Auberge (farm restaurant), meals that showcase the best of French food as well as regional specialties, vineyards and even lunch at a farm run by 15 women farmers situated in the gorgeous village of  Flavigny (where the film Chocolat was set). We won't just be following the well-worn tracks, we'll be exploring some of rural France as well, finding and sampling exquisite food and wine on the way.
The ferme auberge  below is near Velleron; there is a wonderful fresh produce market here, where all the local farmers park their trucks / cars and put up a table or simply sell from their vehicles, something like a 'boot' sale.

Lunch here was six courses and took a memorable two hours - it'll be great not to have to worry about driving! All the food was grown on the farm, plus the copious quantities of wine served with each course.

Black gold!

Street food in Paris

The tour will also visit places of artistic and historical interest, most of which I've visited before but am only too happy to return to - I 'm a big fan of Monet and Cezanne, Renoir, Sisley and Van Gogh, among many others, and it's fascinating to visit the places they actually lived and worked.

Monet's garden at Giverny

The house at Giverny

No, not Colorado - Apt, in Provence, where Cezanne, Van Gogh and Monet et al sourced their paints from.

You probably know that France is full of Roman sites such as at Alecia, where Julius Caesar defeated the Gauls in 50 BC - walking on that ground and visiting the ruins of the Roman settlements that followed is a moving experience.

There are a few places left and it'll be a wonderful trip!  

Click HERE for more information OR for a detailed itinerary and further information contact

Russell Duff at VIP Tours - 63 Hanover St, Dunedin


phone   (03) 471 6616 or 0274 346069 
 
email    russell@viptours.co.nz

Mole

I was reading about a wonderful mole on the Easy Food Hacks blog which sounded fantastic but, as it was cooked using traditional methods, very time consuming. Being lazier but a trier, I've dabbled in moles for some years and finally came up with this one for my 'Vegetarian Kitchen' . I do like this kind of meal, inexpensive but lots of lovely flavours and textures.
I don't have a photo at the moment (this was an impulse post) but will make it over Easter and post a photo then.

                                               MEXICAN MOLE

Mexican cuisine is vibrant, showy, and full of contrasts; think hot chilli salsa with cool guacamole, or avocado, tomato and fresh coriander spiked with lime. A meal is rarely about one dish in isolation, but more about an anchor main accompanied by side dishes.

 Mole (pronounced mole-ay) is quintessentially Mexican, a traditional sauce where chilli is tempered by chocolate, and infused with notes of spice and smoke to create real character. It’s different, delicious and, as with most Mexican food, inexpensive. 
Mole is even better served the next day, when the flavours have found their rightful place in the scheme of things. Don’t be tempted to take shortcuts with this mole – it’s quick to assemble and well worth the cooking time.
Serves 4-6. Suitable to freeze.

Mole is especially good served simply with a dollop of sour cream, fresh coriander and nachos – but a fresh salsa*( made from fresh tomatoes seeded and chopped small, peeled chopped garlic, finely diced red onion,  minced seeded fresh chilli (optional), a squeeze of lime or lemon, chopped fresh coriander, salt and pepper) enhances it even further. Add diced avocado if you like, and partner it all with a spoonful or two of sour cream.

Mole is equally as good with tacos or tortillas, rice, baked potatoes or cornbread.

¾ cup black turtle beans, soaked for 5 hours or overnight 

1 x 400g eggplant
4 Tbsp oil
1 large onion, peeled and sliced
5-6 red chillies, about 6cm long, seeded and finely chopped
2 large red capsicums, diced 
6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped finely
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp sweet (dulce) Spanish smoked paprika
2 x 400g tins peeled, chopped tomatoes
                         or 1 kg fresh, peeled and chopped
1 ½ cups water
30g dark, 70% chocolate
salt and pepper to taste
fresh tomato salsa,* sour cream, finely chopped coriander, lime or lemon

Preheat the oven to 190 C.

Slice the eggplant into 2cm dice, toss with enough oil to lightly coat, (about ¼ cup), and salt lightly. Transfer to an oven tray and roast for 25 minutes or until golden, turning once. Remove from the oven and set aside. Turn the oven down to 170 c.
Meanwhile, heat the 4 Tbsp oil over a medium heat in a large, heavy based oven to table casserole dish. Sauté the onion and chillies, garlic and capsicums until well softened, adding a little more oil if necessary.
Stir in the cinnamon, ground coriander, paprika and smoked paprika and sauté for a few minutes more.
Add the tomatoes with their juice, and the water.
Stir in the soaked beans and the roasted eggplant. Heat to simmer point and stir in the finely chopped chocolate.  Cover the casserole dish and transfer to the oven. Bake at 170 c for two hours, stirring occasionally.
Taste, then add salt and pepper to your liking.
Serve with sour cream and/or fresh salsa as outlined above*, and try it with nachos or baked potatoes, tortillas, or any of the other suggestions.

Summer fruit and preserved grape leaves

I love the idea of preserving grape leaves to make dolmas, or simply using them as an edible doylie or 'plate'. So easy, and so delicious.

There are so many grape vines in New Zealand now, it seems crazy not to make use of the leaves. I stuffed mine with cooked rice, toasted walnuts and dried cranberries, herbs and a few spices - yum!
It's been busy around here, so much produce and so little time! Also, the first photoshoot for the new book was last weekend - exhausting! Fascinating, but exhausting. Photographers are so meticulous, their gear weighs a ton and they can't be hurried (thank goodness, I wouldn't have it any other way, but it was a long weekend. . .). I hasten to add that the photographs here are mine, and not professional in any way.
I've been so busy making pickles, chutneys and relish that I forgot to post photos of Central Otago fruit from when we were there over summer; so before it's just a distant memory. . .

Aren't they gorgeous? My friends David and Jeni grow stunning organic produce off what used to be pretty much bare land in the Kawerau gorge, and sell to top retaurants in the area - and you can see why

They work way too hard, but their commitment shows and can be tasted in every bite of the produce.

Amazing people. And it hardly needs to be said that using quality produce yields the best tasting preserves every time, there's simply no question about it.
So, summer revisited and autumn is on its way - passionfruit, pears, red capsicums and chillies, figs, feijoas in April, limes and other citrus soon, and persimmons. Not to mention saffron crocus - true! I have some in the garden,and my yield was almost a tablespoon of saffron threads from about twenty bulbs last year. At this rate it'll never make me rich, though, and I still have to buy some each year - luckily, it does go a long way.

Sweet/sour Plum paste

Now the garage is filling up with jars of gherkins, chutneys, sauces, relish and pickles. I love the creative thing, though, and feeling virtuous is so affirming.


Our house smells like a pickle factory! Pinny is on, cauldrons are steaming late into the night and the perrenial search for jars is on.
This one is in response to a request - thought I'd publish it as plums are ready to go right now!
Someone has already sneaked a slice off the bottom one, when my back was turned. . .

SWEET/SOUR PLUM PASTE

Be warned; this paste takes hold of taste buds and won’t let go - especially when served with brie and crackers.

Black Doris plums are a favourite for this paste, giving it an intense black/red colour and great flavour; but other red-fleshed plums such as Omega or Satsuma are also excellent.
Yield: about 2 ½ cups.

1 kg ripe plums, preferably red fleshed
1 Tbsp lemon zest
juice of ½ lemon
1 star anise
sugar

Stone and chop the plums, a task easily done when the plums are very ripe. Transfer to a large saucepan with the lemon zest and juice and the star anise. Bring to simmer point over a low heat and cook, partly covered and stirring regularly, for about twenty minutes or until very soft.

Pour into a large sieve set over a bowl and push the mixture through with a wooden spoon. Discard the small amount of skin/fibre remaining.
Weigh the sieved pulp and transfer to a wide, shallow, non-stick fry pan.
Stir in an equivalent weight of sugar and bring to a boil, stirring, over a medium heat.
Cook for about one hour, stirring regularly. The mixture will reduce by just over half and be quite thick. A wooden spoon will leave a trail through the mix for a few moments at this point.
Turn off the heat and sit for ten minutes to cool (no longer) while you line moulds of choice for the paste.
An easy way to do this is to line ramekins with cling wrap, pour in the paste, cool and turn out. The cling wrap does imprint wrinkles on the paste, but if this is an issue, cut baking paper to snugly fit the bottom of the ramekins; when cool, dip a knife in hot water and run it around the inside of the mould to release the paste and turn out.
It is also possible to use small, unlined jelly moulds.
Wrap each paste in cling wrap and store in a refrigerator.

Serve this paste as part of an antipasto, as it complements not only cheeses but cold meats (or hot); with cheese after a meal instead of dessert; or add to sauces for extra flavour.